April 17-24, 2006 Ireland and Wales.
Once again on the road. And despite the words of the old World
War I song, it really isn't that long a road to Tipperary. However, the issue of safety driving on the narrow Irish roads
is a horse of a differant color. Our drive took us on progressively smaller roads, from the dual carriageway of the M7 out
of Dublin to the two lane road of the N74 into Tipperary. We spent the night at a bed and breakfast in Tipperary which had
a big back yard, providing another opportunity for the the boys to try and beat the parent team in football. Tipperary is
definitely a working town with much less emphasis on tourism and more on daily Irish life. An interesting comparison with
Dublin.
From Tipperary we headed south on our way to Blarney in County Cork. But before we arrived there we stopped
at Caher, location of Caher Castle. The parental units had stopped at this same location 16 years ago and toured the castle
with Jim Gorton. We wanted to share this incredible relic with Liam and Dillon. The castle was begun in the 12th century and
remains in tremendous condition because it was surrendered to Cromwell in 1650 without a struggle. The boys filled their stay
with fantasies of battles and how they would repulse an attack by any number of attackers, even if they breached the outside
wall. For us, the castle was everything we had remembered.
From Cahir we drove to the little town of Blarney. Blarney
is a real contrast. Seven kilometers from the second largest city in Ireland (Cork) and home to one of the most visited tourist
attractions in the country, it still remains a cozy little Irish village. The people are friendly as any in Ireland and after
the tourist buses leave with the people who stay only an hour, it actually is almost a sleepy little town. We stayed in the
Blarney Castle Hotel, a small family-run hotel with a comfortable pub downstairs. We found it was popular with the locals
our first night there, as our room was right over the pub and we could hear the noise late into the night. Not as much noise
as we heard in the meeting room next to our room our first night which was hosting the monthly meeting of the Blarney Gramophone
Society, complete with classic old recordings played at top volume. You gotta love those small towns. Across from the hotel
was the large town green which provided the family with yet another venue to hone their football skills (F.Y.I. U.K. football
is very similar to U.S. soccer).
Of course Blarney town was our gateway to Blarney Castle. All four family members
kissed the Blarney Stone. The castle is not as well preserved as Cahir, but that didn't impact the boys' imaginations at all.
Especially when we came to the dark, scarry stairways up into the unknown. One ended in a large, empty, dark room. One could
almost hear the conspiratorial whispers from long ago. Another great advantage to Blarney was the shopping opportunities,
which all the family members availed themselves of. The luggage grows bigger. Blarney was a great stop. A town we will return
to.
Our stay in Ireland was coming to an end. Before leaving Bill wanted to quickly relay a day he had around Dublin
exploring the early days of Ireland. The land north of Dublin is particularly rich in history. It contains place where Cromwell
landed and committed his first outrage, Drogheda, and the place where William of Orange defeated the army of James to cement
the protestant, English rule of Ireland. But it also contains much earlier history in the places of Newgrange and Tara. Newgrange
contains Stone Age buildings, passage tombs, which are aligned with the skies, the largest of which is light inside only by
the sun on the days around the winter soltice. Tara was the home of all that was early Irish, from the druids and goddesses
to the High Kings of Ireland. Definitely a fine day of history in a land full of the past.
From Blarney we headed
west and caught the ferry from Rosslare. It was sad to see Ireland recede in the foggy morning light. On the other side, we
landed in Fishguard, Wales. A few hours drive brought us to Cardiff, the capital of Wales. We stayed on the outside of the
city which gave us easy access to the surrounding area which included another great castle to tour. Caerphilly Castle was
built in the 13th century during wars between competing Welsh nobles but within twenty years of its construction Edward I
subdued Wales and made the castle obsolete. It remains a wonderful place to visit and imagine. It is absolutely huge, with
walls thicker than a person's arm is long. We walked the grounds in awe.
Like many of the places we visited, our stay
in Wales was way too short. For instance one of the places we want to visit next trip is a Welsh town called: Llanfairpwllqwynqyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch.
So much to see. Such long names.
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A typical street in Tipperary, Ireland. Notice the satellite dish on second "house" from the right. Old meets
new.
Cahir Castle, Cahir, Ireland. Started by Conor O"Brien in 1142. Now that's Irish.
A typical scene from the roads of Ireland. An old delapidated house in the foreground, the remnants of a castle
on the hill, and new housing springing up.
Blarney Castle, built in the 15th century for Lord Blarney.
A view from the ground of the Blarney Stone. It is in the middle bay which appears dark because someone is leaning
over the opening to kiss the stone after climbing the 200+ stairs to the top of the castle. Is it really worth it?
Newgrange, Ireland. Stone age passage tomb that celebrates the winter solstice. The Irish were pretty clever
even back in those days.
Tara, the celtic, sacred, royal place of Ireland. Shown is The King's Seat with Lia Fail, Ireland's Stone
of Destiny on the right and a memorial to six martyrs of the 1798 Rising on the left.
The coast of Wales approaches through the fog.
Caerphilly Castle. Built in the 13th century to fend off Llywelyn the Great, it worked against him but not Edward
I, who conquered Wales during the 1270s and it has remained so ever since.
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